Travel Capsule · Patagonia & the Antarctic Peninsula

Antarctica
& Paine

Four nights under the granite towers of Torres del Paine, then a photography voyage down the Antarctic Peninsula: fly over the Drake, sail back across it.

When
Jan 19 – Feb 8, 2027 · solo
Light
Paine ~06:10–21:55 · Peninsula ~04:10–22:45
Voyage
Antarctica Through the Lens · 12 days
Ship
Sylvia Earle
Drake Passage
Once, northbound
Frame
GR IV · OM-1 II + 100–400
Viewing the plan · pre-trip
01

Where Things Stand

as of Sat, Sep 26, 2026 · nothing booked yet
Aurora voyageHold requested Sep 26
Hotel Las TorresInquiry sent Sep 26
FlightsAfter Aurora confirms
InsuranceWithin 14 days of paying Aurora
02

The Map

where it all is · tap a point for its day

Tap any point for the day it belongs to. The three larger gold dots are the trip's anchors: Laguna Amarga at sunrise, the charter landing on King George Island, and the Lemaire Channel, which is a hope rather than a promise, since the expedition team sets the route day by day.

03

Degrees South

how far down it goes
Santiagoconnect, Jan 20
33.4°
Torres del PaineJan 20–24 · ~16 h light
51.0°
Punta ArenasJan 24–26
53.2°
King George Islandland Jan 26
62.2°
Peninsula, LemaireJan 27 – Feb 2 · ~18½ h light
~65°
Ushuaiadock Feb 5
54.8°
Buenos AiresFeb 5–7
34.6°
04

The Days

four movements · one ship · the ice sets the clock

Each day carries a locator map (tap to jump to the full map), its theme, and an energy read. A gold pill marks a clock someone else sets (a flight, Aurora's check-in); everything else is a suggested shape, not a schedule. The whole trip runs on UTC−3: Santiago, Magallanes and Argentina all sit there in January. Sun times are calculated, not looked up, and the ship may keep its own clock.

Movement I · Getting South
Two flights and a transfer, and the only day of the trip with no light to chase.
Day 1 · Tue
Jan 19
Out
in transit

United to Houston, then the overnight to Santiago.

20:30
UA847 Houston → SantiagoOvernight
  • IAH 20:30 → SCL 08:50 Wed
  • one schedule lists 20:45 → 07:50: confirm on united.com
  • LAX → IAH earlier in the day, flight not chosen yet
  • not booked

The long leg south. The departure time is United's published schedule for the winter season; how many days a week it flies in January 2027 is still unconfirmed, so check it before building the rest of the chain on it.

Day 2 · Wed
Jan 20
Arrive
long

Santiago to the park in one push.

08:50
Land in Santiago
  • immigration + the SAG agricultural check
  • re-check bags

Clear immigration and the agricultural check, collect the bags and check them again for the southern flight. The onward leg is a separate ticket, so nothing carries your luggage through for you.

11:50
Santiago → Puerto Natales
  • no earlier than 3 h after landing
  • separate ticket
  • 2027 schedule unconfirmed

A midday flight south to Puerto Natales, then the lodge transfer into the park, about 1.5–2 hours. 11:50 is the earliest departure worth considering, three hours after the Santiago landing, not a flight that exists yet.

Movement II · Torres del Paine
Hotel Las Torres, all-inclusive, four nights. Sunrise at Laguna Amarga comes first; everything else bends to the wind.
Day 3 · Thu
Jan 21
Towers
dawn

The towers side, at first light.

06:10
Sunrise at Laguna AmargaAnchor shoot
  • sunrise ~06:10 (calculated)
  • towers reflected if the wind is down

The towers catching first light across the lagoon, and a reflection if the water is still. This is the one to protect: if the wind takes it, Saturday is the retry.

15:00
Guanacos along Lago Sarmiento
  • afternoon, suggested
  • sunset ~21:55

The guanaco herds on the open steppe by Lago Sarmiento. The lodge's own excursion menu should replace this slot once it's in hand.

Day 4 · Fri
Jan 22
Water
steady

The Pehoé side: falling water, then still water.

10:00
Salto Grande & Mirador Cuernos
  • lodge shuttle to Pudeto · ~1 h 30 m
  • ~6.4 km return, ~150 m gain, easy
  • closes in high wind

Salto Grande, then the flat trail on to the Mirador Cuernos viewpoint, wind permitting. The trail is shut when it blows hard, which in Patagonia is not a rare event.

15:00
Lago Pehoé on the way back
  • on the road back from Pudeto
  • sunset ~21:53 (calculated)

Lago Pehoé with the Cuernos behind it, on the way back to the lodge. The evening light is better, but sunset is near ten and the lodge is an hour and a half away, so staying for it means a midnight return before a possible 06:10 retry. Take it in the afternoon unless Saturday's sunrise is already safe.

Day 5 · Sat
Jan 23
Ice
loose

The first ice of the trip, or a second chance at the towers.

06:13
The weather retry, or Lago Grey
  • sunrise ~06:13 (calculated)
  • Laguna Amarga ~25 min from the lodge
  • Lago Grey is a daytime trip, farther than Pudeto

If Thursday's sunrise was blown out, a repeat of Laguna Amarga: this is the day held open for exactly that. Otherwise the long drive to Lago Grey for icebergs on the beach, if the lake has any that week; that is a daytime outing, not a dawn one.

Day 6 · Sun
Jan 24
Buffer
quiet

Out of the park, and a night held in reserve.

06:15
Last dawn in the park, then Punta Arenas
  • sunrise ~06:15 (calculated)
  • lodge transfer to Punta Arenas

The lodge transfer to Punta Arenas, and a buffer night before Aurora's check-in, because the Antarctic charter can't be caught up later.

Movement III · Antarctica Through the Lens
Aurora Expeditions, voyage AEP054S. Fly over the Drake, then seven days on the Peninsula and the South Shetlands.
Day 7 · Mon
Jan 25
Check in
waiting

Voyage day 1, on land.

14:00
Check in with AuroraVoyage begins
  • Punta Arenas · by 14:00
  • hotel tonight is Aurora's
  • briefing in the evening

Check in by two, voyage briefing in the evening. If the weather window is good, the charter can leave today instead of tomorrow, so be packed to the charter limits before you walk in.

Day 8 · Tue
Jan 26
Over the Drake
loud

Under two hours in the air instead of two days at sea.

21:57
First sunset from the shipAnchor
  • charter flight · BAe 146 · ~1 h 45 m · departure set by Aurora
  • 23 kg checked + 8 kg carry-on
  • weather hold up to 72 h
  • sunset ~21:57 (calculated)

About an hour and forty-five minutes on the BAe 146, then a Zodiac out to the ship. The flight has no published clock; Aurora calls it on the weather, and can hold for up to 72 hours. If there's no flight by 06:00 on voyage day 4, the voyage is canceled for credit. This row is timed to the island's sunset because the charter has no clock of its own.

Day 9–15 · Wed–Tue
Jan 27 – Feb 2
The Peninsula
peak

Seven days of ice, on the ship's clock.

04:12
First light · landings and Zodiac cruises, twice a dayAnchor shoot
  • sunrise ~04:12 → ~04:36 over the week
  • sunset ~22:43 → ~22:21
  • sites set on board

Seven days on the Peninsula and the South Shetlands. Landings or Zodiac cruises twice a day, some at sunrise and sunset, with fewer guests per Zodiac so there's room to shoot, and photography workshops in between. The expedition team picks the sites day by day; the Lemaire Channel and a continental landing are the hopes, not promises. On the list for the long lens: humpback and minke whales, gentoo chicks, leopard, crabeater and Weddell seals.

Day 16–17 · Wed–Thu
Feb 3–4
Drake
at sea

North across the Drake.

04:43
First light · a last landing, then two days at sea
  • sunrise ~04:43 (calculated)
  • stabilized X-BOW hull
  • seasick plan: ask a doctor about a patch

A last morning landing in the South Shetlands, then two days north across the Drake. Albatross and petrels off the stern, and Cape Horn if time allows.

Movement IV · Home
Off the ship, two separate tickets, and one day in Buenos Aires that United's schedule hands you.
Day 18 · Fri
Feb 5
Ashore
moving

Up the Beagle Channel and north.

08:00
Disembark in Ushuaia
  • ~08:00 · voyage day 12

Off the ship around eight, after the run up the Beagle Channel.

12:00
Ushuaia → Buenos Aires
  • no flights before noon
  • separate ticket
  • Ezeiza direct if possible

An afternoon flight to Buenos Aires, direct to Ezeiza if there is one. It's a separate ticket from the United flights home, and Argentine airline strikes are a real risk, which is one more reason the Saturday is free.

Day 19 · Sat
Feb 6
Free
loose

A free day in Buenos Aires.

06:19
First light · a free day
  • sunrise ~06:19 (calculated)
  • UA818 doesn't fly Saturdays

Nothing planned yet. United's Ezeiza flight doesn't run on Saturdays, so the day is open, and it doubles as a buffer against a late Friday.

Day 20–21 · Sun–Mon
Feb 7–8
Home
in transit

The overnight home.

21:05
UA818 Buenos Aires → HoustonOvernight
  • EZE 21:05 → IAH
  • connect IAH → LAX, arrive Mon Feb 8
  • not booked

The overnight to Houston and the connection home.

•

The Roll

the frames that survived the edit
05

The Episodes

three bodies of work this trip should produce
Unshot
Episode · forthcoming
Paine
granite · wind · water · GR IV, black and white
Unshot
Episode · forthcoming
White Continent
ice · light · scale · GR IV at 28mm
Unshot
Episode · forthcoming
Southern Ocean
whales · seals · birds · OM-1 II with the 100–400
06

Before You Go

Aurora first — everything else hangs off it
Mon, Sep 28
Call Aurora about the voyageconfirm the solo quote in writing, a doctor on board, their outbreak procedures, and extra charter weight for camera gear · their offer ends Sep 30
On reply
Hotel Las Torres, Jan 20–24single room, all-inclusive, transfers in from Puerto Natales and out to Punta Arenas
Within 14 days of paying Aurora
Travel insurance with cancel-for-any-reasonbought within 14 days of paying Aurora, with the evacuation cover Aurora requires
After Aurora
Book UA847 out on Jan 19 and UA818 home on Feb 7confirm both run on those days in 2027 first — sources disagree on frequency
Punta Arenas hotel for Sun, Jan 24the buffer night before Aurora's check-in · Aurora's hotel starts Mon
Buenos Aires hotel, Feb 5–7two nights before UA818 on Sunday
Book Santiago → Puerto Natales and Ushuaia → Buenos Airesseparate tickets · allow 3 h in Santiago · nothing out of Ushuaia before noon
By Nov 26
Send Aurora proof of insurance
December
Kit for the icerain cover for the OM-1 and 100–400, dry bag, spare batteries, waterproof trousers, base layers · parka and boots come from Aurora
January
Seasickness plan from a doctor
Pack to the charter limits23 kg checked + 8 kg carry-on · overhead bin 45×40×20 cm
07

What It Was Like

— written after the trip.

Compiled Sep 26, 2026. Schedules and sites change; the voyage route is decided day by day on board. Sources: Aurora, Through the Lens · Aurora contingency plans · Hotel Las Torres · Mirador Cuernos · UA847 · SCL–PNT